After 18 hours of travel, I finally touch down in Santiago, Chile, and instantly, it is all real. I have entered a whole new world. Everything is fast paced and crazy and all of a sudden I am not quite sure I am ready for this.

I have been practicing my Spanish, but it still feels incredibly foreign. I am unable to understand a word of what is being said around me. (I later discovered that Chilean Spanish, as it turns out, is quite different from other dialects. They use different words and different endings than those I have studied or have been accustomed to hearing. Plus, they speak incredibly fast!) To jump in with both feet, my first adventure begins as soon as I make it through customs.

Operation – Get to the Hostel

Having no job, I’m obviously on a pretty tight budget, so taking a taxi is not an option.  Instead, using a screen shot of directions as my guide, I begin to make my way to Hostal Providencia (http://hostalprovidencia.com/).

• Step 1: Get on a bus. Ok, easy.
• Step 2: Get off the bus. Not as easy…I miss my stop and have to walk back about 10 minutes to the correct Metro station. No big deal, but not a perfect start.
• Step 3: Get on the Metro. The lines to buy a ticket are incredibly long, and given that everyone is shouting and speaking so fast, I have no idea what is going on. Luckily, a woman behind me sees my struggle and the lack of urgency at the ticket counter; she steps in and makes sure that we both get our tickets quickly. She also tells me which way I need to go to get to the right metro station. Crisis averted.
• Step 4: Get off the Metro and walk to hostel. I find the right stop (Baquedano) easily, and am pretty confident I know which direction I need to go once I exit the station. WRONG! I walk about 15 minutes in the opposite direction before asking for help, but eventually I make it to the hostel in Bellavista, the “bohemian” area of Santiago. Mission accomplished.

Check in is simple and the hostel is nice with plenty of common areas and good lockers in the room. I am too amped up to take a nap, so it is time to start exploring the city.

Santiago in Two Days

The next couple of days in Santiago are kind of a whirlwind and mostly consist of me wandering the city aimlessly and getting my bearings. There is plenty to see and the city feels very safe to walk around and to take it all in. I am impressed with the amount of green space in the city and how well maintained it is. The grass is perfectly green, even in the scorching heat. In two short days, I manage to pack a lot in – mostly all by foot.

Cerro Santa Lucia – This is a huge park that I spend hours casually strolling. The cerro (hill) is located right across from a fun crafts market (Centro Artesenal Sant Lucia). There is a fort at the top that I walk up to for amazing views and to really take in the vastness of the city.

Plaza de Armas – This is the main square in the city. It is very nice and open, with a fountain in the middle, and is packed with people. I notice that many of the fountains seem to have people swimming in them, which I find unusual. I’m not sure if this is permitted, or perhaps, in the heat of the summer, if everyone just looks the other way.

La Moneda Palace – Chile’s Presidential Offices. La Moneda was attacked in the military coup in 1973, but was later restored. There is a traditional changing of the guards that takes place every other day, but unfortunately, I did not have the chance to see this.

Cerro San Cristobal – This is another huge park in the city. I spend hours and hours walking through and taking it all in. When I first arrive at the entrance, I decide that I want to walk to the top of the hill to see the statue of the Virgen Mary, and for more stunning views of the city. The walk is much harder than I anticipate, and I’m pretty sure I miss the correct trail. I end up on a very steep bike path instead of leisurely enjoying a walk, as intended. In the harsh heat of the day, I finally make it to the top, visit the Sanctuary, and continue to explore the rest of the Park (Parque Metropolitano).

---

---

Bravvisimo (on Paseo  Huerfanos) – Per a suggestion, I stop in here and get a banana split gelato. It is exactly what I need in the middle of this 90 degree day!

Maestra Vida (http://maestravida.cl/) – In the evening, we head here for some salsa dancing and live music. We arrive a bit early and the place seems dead, but the band starts up around 11 and the it really comes alive. Some of the dancers are phenomenal and blow my mind with their skills.

Tours for Tips (http://www.tours4tips.com/en/) – On my last morning in Santiago, I decide to round it all out with a tour. I meet with a group called Tours for Tips in front of the Museo Bellas Artes. The premise is that it is a free walking tour, and you pay what you think the tour is worth in the end. Our guide, Cristobal, is wonderful; he is originally from Santiago and is very informative and passionate about the city. I choose the morning tour which is “off the beaten path.” As we walk, we visit some of the lesser known areas of the city and learn a lot about the modern history of Chile and the political turmoil they have experienced. Our guide gives us three words to learn to help us understand more about the city:

• Terremoto – means earthquake, which Chile is known for having a lot of. This is also a popular drink (so named because after having one, you will stand up and feel the “after shake”) made with grenadine, cheap white wine, pineapple juice, and ice cream. 
• La chimba – meaning “the least important.”
• Animita – refers to a type of shrine that is commonly formed around those that have passed. In Chile it is also commonly used to venerate a spirit who is believed to have special otherwordly powers.

The tour takes us to the following sites:

• El Mercado Central/La Vega Chica/La Vega – three very large markets selling all kinds of fresh food, from fish and meats to fruits and veggies. The markets also house different types of restaurants varying from the cheap, quick and delicious, to the more classic sit-down types.
• La Chimba – the name of the neighborhood where La Vega and La Vega Chica are located (on the “other side of the river”). The name literally translates to “the least important.” This neighborhood is known for housing immigrants and the marginalized of society and signifies the large class differences that are experienced in Chile. 
• El Cementerio General – The oldest and biggest cemetery in Chile. All but one of Chile’s presidents (the military dictator Pinochet) are buried here.

Lastly, and maybe most importantly, Cristobal offers us a list of foods that we must try while in Chile:

• Machas – saltwater clam baked with parmesan
• Pastel de jaiba – crab pie
• Caldillo de congrio – pink eel soup
• Porotos – light summer bean soup
• Humitas – baked or boiled corns husks filled with corn
• Lomo a lo pobre – beef topped with a fried egg and served with fries

---

---

By the time my tour is over, I am ready to head to the bus station. I am pretty satisfied with my time in the capital city and feel that I hit a lot of sites in a short amount of time. Time to go soak up some rays at the beach!

xx Christina

Apologies to everyone for taking so long to post. Finding time to write and having a reliable wifi connection has been more difficult than expected. But I hope you enjoyed the recap of the first few days of my adventure!

---

Some Tips

Hostels – I do most of my research of Hostels using Hostelworld (hostelworld.com). There are some advantages to booking through this site (like convenience and knowing you have a place to stay). However, it’s important  to read the fine print regarding payment, hours, check-in etc. Also, the rates may be slightly higher on the site than at the hostel, because they must pay a fee to the site. Regardless, I still find this to be the easiest route to go.

Tipping in Chile – tipping in Chile is a bit odd. On many bills, the tip (propina) will already be included, so the total appears higher than the actual required payment, especially to the unsuspecting tourist. This “propina” is not actually required (although 10% is standard, as wages are very low). What I found alarming is that if you don’t pay the tip (whether included or not), they may challenge you and ask you very directly for a tip and try to insist that the 10% is required. In general, best practice is to tip the 10%, unless service is very poor, but just be alert as to whether it has already been included so that you are not overpaying.

Quick Links

Hostal Providencia – Santiago – http://hostalprovidencia.com/

Hostel World – http://www.hostelworld.com/

Maestra Vida – http://maestravida.cl/

Tours 4 Tips – http://www.tours4tips.com/en/